It was a last-minute thought – a few days in Tobago to chill out. We got a great off-season mid-week deal for a double cabana at the Crown Point Beach Hotel, arguably the best location on the island.
My yoga teacher, Elspeth Duncan, has started a charity named ‘Venus: Doggess of Love’ which rescues Tobago animals, fosters them, and finds homes for them, mainly in Trinidad and sometimes abroad. She is always looking for people who are travelling between Trinidad and Tobago to transport the animals as luggage to their new home. I contacted her once we’d booked out flights and offered my services. Elspeth swung into action, using Facebook to request the loan of a dog crate, and volunteers to deliver same to the airport and also to collect a dog in it when we returned to Trinidad.
We arrived on a slightly drizzly Monday afternoon with an empty dog crate which Elspeth collected from us at the Tobago airport. She had mentioned that she was giving an open-air Kundalini yoga session at the old Fort Milford that evening to coincide with the New Moon. So, after a delicious and filling lunch from Miss Jean’s at the Store Bay food court, and settling into our cabanas in the expansive grounds of the hotel, I made my way to the ruins of the fort next door for 5pm.
There were only four of us there as we laid our towels/mats on the grass. It was a delightful and peaceful way to enjoy the setting of the sun, despite the loud whirring of the prop planes from the nearby runway, and the roar of the wind in our ears. We limed afterwards with a few snacks until it was quite dark.
I was still full from my lunch of fish, coo-coo and callaloo, but managed a tasty starter from Crafters Steak House and Grill opposite the entrance to the hotel, as a most enjoyable dinner. Afterwards we played cards in the verandah of one of the cabanas, already feeling soothed by the holiday atmosphere of Tobago.
We spent the entire next day just relaxing at Crown Point. We walked along the beach at the end of the runway, and ended up having a cocktail at the Tropikist Hotel overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Once again, we favoured the food court for local cuisine, this time from Miss Esme’s hut. I enjoyed lentils, macaroni pie and callaloo, while admiring the many culinary trophies won by Miss Esme and her family.
Oh, I must mention the bird-life! Apart from the humming birds, tropical mocking birds, bananaquits, doves, blue birds, pelicans, frigate birds, etc., that were all around, there were chickens. I mean a lot of hens, many with tiny chicks, and a few cockerels, all wandering about the hotel grounds under the Almond and Flamboyant trees, which were blooming with vibrant orange, yellow or red blossoms. There were young chickens begging as we sat at the food court, even jumping on our laps to get at curried crab. Talk about free-range! And pre-seasoned with curry too!
Later on, we swam in the crystal clear and calm waters of Store Bay. The sand underwater was fine and rock-free, and the beach was clean and, well, sandy-coloured. Just perfect! This is when I thought how lucky we Trinis are to have this paradise on our doorstep, when visitors from cold climes have to travel thousands of miles at great expense to enjoy it. There wasn’t even a crowd of people to contend with. We finished off the day watching a gorgeous red and orange sunset while sipping a happy-hour cocktail. Our chairs were cliff-side overlooking the sea where a few sailboats lay at anchor, with the view of breaking waves over reefs near Pigeon Point in the distance.
That evening, we walked along the main road looking for a restaurant, only to find that the ones we had enjoyed in the past were no longer there. There were many fast-food establishments but we wanted something more genteel. We had almost given up when we spotted the newly-opened Brown Cow Restaurant. This turned out to be a gourmet’s delight, and we were all very happy with our food choices. I highly recommend it.
We decided to rent a car the next day, first driving to the Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort on the south-west side of the island. We strolled along that rather dirty, grey beach with angry rollers thundering in. The Sargassum seaweed was much in evidence here, though we didn’t see it elsewhere.
Then we headed up the west coast, hoping to have lunch at the Arnos Vale Hotel. That turned out to be derelict which is such a shame as it’s on a lovely beach. We continued driving along the winding and hilly road, admiring the lushness and beauty of the island, until we eventually reached Castara Bay. Here we had another creole meal cooked with ‘sweet hand’ at the beach facility. The life guard approached as we walked along the beach. He enquired if we needed any help with anything, assuring us that the water was very safe to bathe there. Great public relations, I must say!
After the long drive back, we continued around to the far side of the airport strip, and followed a road towards the sea. We climbed down a short hill to walk on an uninhabited and unspoilt beach. There were breakers rolling in from the Atlantic and the air was fresh with salty wind. There was no garbage, just some flotsam of logs and coral, very few shells, and a minimal (normal) amount of seaweed on the sand. It was so calming to walk barefoot here, enjoying dodging the waves and looking for souvenir shells. Too soon we had to leave before it got dark. I took advantage of the large hotel pool for a leisurely swim for even more exercise.
That night, we drove the short distance to The Shepherd’s Inn for a lobster dinner. The food was just wonderful here and the hospitality first-class, as everywhere else that we went in Tobago.
The next morning, we checked in at the airport and Elspeth met us with the dog crate that now contained “Blessing”, a small dog that had been found in the forest, covered in mange. He was well on his way to recovery and destined for a new home in Canada. We were met at the terminal in Trinidad by yet more volunteers who transported him to Northwest Veterinary Clinic where he will board for a month for free, before the final step of his journey. Great work by Elspeth and her volunteers to give a dog the chance of a happy and healthy life!
Update: here are a couple of links showing Blessing’s recovery and journey to Canada:
Looking forward to returning to lovely Tobago in July….
Really enjoyed reading this, Sue. Closed my eyes and I was there. Thanks for all your wonderful articles.
Such good ‘vibes’ from home. The scenes, the food, the dog rescue and all else. All beautifully told.
Grear article Sue. by coincidence I had just read in a birding book that Tobago was a birdwatcher’s paradise with 400 different species – you seem to have confirmed that, although I’m not sure I would want a chicken on my lap trying to help eat my lunch!
Makes me feel to come to Tobago for a holiday! 😉
Enjoyed reading of our time in Tobago, I sure enjoyed it. Only negative and I know it does not bother others as it does me, is the loud music.